FREE Pattern - Decorate and Sew Your Own Face Mask for these COVID 19 Days

I have made quite a few masks over the past few months, following many many different patterns found on this world wide web. I have taken favorite elements from a few to make my own pattern. Others may have come up with this same solution, so I am not claiming that it is unique. I am just offering this particular way of making a mask to those who want to purchase my Decorate and Sew Your Own Face Mask kits or Fabric for Face Masks kits that are COMING SOON to my Etsy shop!

This is a very long blog post, with lots of photos, but the mask really does not take long to make once you've got the hang of it!

Start with two rectangles, measuring 8" wide x 5.5" tall, of light to midnight cotton fabric. One piece will be for the lining and the other will be the outer, more decorative, side of the mask. My kits come with flour sack cotton to use as the outer layer.  But for this tutorial, I have selected a pale green cotton that I have hand printed, using one of my favorite stamps. You can see I folded the fabric to plot out where I wanted to position the motif. I will use a simple unbleached muslin (same in the kits)  for the lining.

The first step will to create a dart, in both rectangles, to help the mask fit better under the chin. Fold each rectangle, right sides together, by bringing the right edge over to the left edge. On that center fold, make two pencil marks, the first mark is on the bottom edge, 1/2" from the center fold. Make the second mark right on the center fold, 1.75" up from the bottom edge. Sew a seam between these two marks, locking your stitch at each end. You can make a light pencil mark as a guide if you like.

Press each dart to the right. Then, place the rectangles right sides together, lining up the dart seams, and pin. In this position, the darts should be going in opposite directions. This results in less bulk.

Sew a quarter inch seam on both the top and bottom edges of the rectangle. I'm using a really dark green thread only because it is more visible in the photos!

With the darts, the bottom edge will be more of a V shape. Just stop on the dart seam, with the needle down, lift the presser foot, and slightly turn your fabric so you can continue the quarter inch seam along the rest of that bottom edge.

Press the seams open from the inside and then turn the rectangles right side out and press top and bottom seams flat. The rectangle now measures 8" x 5".

 

Top stitch a quarter inch seam along both the top and bottom edge.

I really advise inserting a wire - somewhere between 2" and 4" long - within this quarter inch seam at the top of the mask. I use 4" twist ties which are wires incased in plastic. I sell these twist ties in my face mask kits but you can use most any kind of rust-proof or plastic coated wire. I have read that some people cut strips out of  those aluminum roasting pans or pie pans.

To make a little enclosed space for the wire, fold the top edge of your mask to "mark" the center. Then, measure 2" to the left of the center (if you are using a 4" wire or my twist tie)and mark that with a pin or another crease. Make a few stitches back and forth between the top edge and the top stitched line. You can do this with your machine or by hand.

My twist ties are less than a quarter inch wide, so I can insert them, from the side, into the tunnel we just created with the inside seam and the top stitched seam. Push the wire on through until it reaches those back and forth stitches you made.

Then you will need to make another set of back and forth stitches to close that space, keeping the wire, or twist tie, in the center.

Now, we will create gathers on both sides. I find the gathers easier than creating the tiny pleats most mask patterns have, but you can do either. 

This is what the pleats would need to look like. About a quarter of an inch of fabric is pinched and folded over. Six small pleats will be about the same as making the gathers. 

But I find making the pleats to be a bit tedious so I make the gathers. Use strong thread! You can even do it by hand, just make a small running stitch with a knot on one end of the thread. Gather it up and then knot the other end.

To make the gathers with your machine, start at the top edge, locking your stitch, then sew a 3/8" seam down the side. When you reach the bottom, lift the needle and presser foot and pull your fabric out. Cut the threads a few inches down from the last stitch. Repeat on the other side.

Separate the top thread tail from the bobbin thread tail and brush the top thread out of the way. Now, pull only on the bobbin thread, very carefully, until the fabric gathers up from the 5" measurement to a 2 - 2.5" measurement. Tie about 3 knots, using both the top and bobbin threads, to hold the gathers in place. If you need to, very carefully redistribute the gathers until they are even.

Now cut two 3.25" x 2.25" pieces of fabric. I will call these "tabs". Use either the same decorative fabric as the front of the mask or anything else that either contrasts or coordinates! If you are making the ties, it can also match the ties.

Place the mask, on top of one of these tabs, right sides together. Center the tab so that at least .25" extends to either side of the mask. I will call these the "side bits". Try to get the gathers in a straight line as best you can, with the raw edges matching the raw edge of the tab. Pin securely and be sure to have  a pin at each edge.

Then, carefully bring each side bit up and over, carefully removing and replacing each edge pin over the side bits. Repeat on the other side of the mask.

Next, you will sew about a 1/2" seam, just to the left of the gathering stitches so they are covered by the tabs on the front of your mask. Then pull the tab out to the side of the mask. Automatic folds will form on the top and bottom of the tab. Press these down neatly.

Then, take the outside end of the tab and fold it in half-way to where the gathers are. Press this down neatly also. A glue stick can help here to keep all the raw edges and folds in place and tucked away.

Place your tie (will show you how to make these further down) or cotton cord (sold with my kits) right in that space between the folded tab edge and the gathers. I prefer to have the knotted, open ends of the ties pointing down - below the chin dart. The loop of the ties will be up above the mask.

Then fold the tab edge up and over the stitches that attach the tab to the mask.

You want to be sure those stitches are covered so that when you top stitch the tab.......

...... it will catch that folded end securely. 

Bring the other end of the tie or cord up to form a loop, which will go over the head, and down to the other side of the mask.  Repeat with tie placement, folding and stitching of that tab.

Now lets go back some steps and learn how to make the ties!

To make ties, just cut or tear a 1.5" strip of fabric that is about 44" long. I use 44" because that is the width of the lightweight cotton from India that I have. I tried a strip that was only 36" long and it was not long enough to go over my head. However, I happen to have a very big head (hard to find hats or headbands to fit!) - so you may be able to get away with 36" but I would recommend at least 40".

Iron your strip nice and flat then fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.

Open the strip back up and then fold and press one raw edge to that center crease you just made with your iron.

Then fold the other side so that both raw edges meet in the center of the strip. 

 Then fold in half again, with raw edges on the inside. Line the folded edges up exactly and press well. If you press well, you won't have to pin. Edge stitch (about 1/8") along that open edge. Start and stop about 1/2 inch from both ends. Lock your stitches.

Tie a knot in both ends of the tie, close enough to the end to cover where your stitches stopped. There should be about 1/4" of tie left below the knot. This will fray nicely in the wash but the knot will keep it from unraveling completely!

After your mask is made, gather up both ends of the tie and make another knot about an inch up from the tie ends. So, now you have a loop above and below the face mask. 

The mask does not need to be tied closely to your head, although that final knot can be adjusted if you like. To put the mask on, hold it with the inside lining facing you and the dart at the bottom. Pull the ties so that the loop under the mask will go over your head and rest on your neck. Then, slide the mask down so there is enough of a loop at the top of the mask to go over your head. That loop can also be brought down to rest on your neck. but then bring the sides of that top loop up to rest on your ears so it holds the nose area close to your face. Press the nose wire against the sides of your nose for more security.

Or, you can leave that top loop up around your head, nose level. I like to wear it that way when it's windy outside! But if you pull both loops down to your neck, you can fluff your hair or ponytail over the ties and they are then totally out of the way.

I hope all of this was clear enough! Happy mask making!

Hand Printed and Hand Tied Quilt

Although I am being bombarded with "Christmas Boot Camp" emails from Etsy, (my own fault, as I signed up for them) telling me how organized and prepared I am supposed to be right now, I find myself, as usual, in the exploration phase! Lets see, last year it was placemats and it looks like 2014 is shaping up to be  the year of the quilt.

For a year or more, I've been longing to try this tutorial from The Purl Bee. Tied quilts really appeal to my nostalgic side. I know I grew up with one or two around! The tutorial has a different twist on things in that it uses a bar tack or "a very short  and wide zig zag" stitch rather than the usual tied yarn. This would have been a great solution for me if I could have gotten either of those stitches to hold. I tried to lock them all sorts of different ways but could not. I decided what I really needed was one of these machines. Something to save up for! After watching that (it's worth it!), I wonder if what I thought was the bar tack stitch on my machine really is….

So, I decided I would have to do things the traditional way. After consulting numerous blogs and hunting down various threads and yarns and their appropriate needles, I proceeded as follows. First of all, you may have noticed that my sample quilt is made up of beautiful hand printed fabric from India on one side and hand-printed-by-me linen on the other. I found this linen, at a fantastic price, in a wacky little store in mid-town Manhattan (one great thing about living here!) and it has been the source of inspiration for several exploratory projects. It's my favorite neutral off-white that has sort of an antique, or vintage, look. It rumples nicely after washing and is soft enough for bedding. Anyway, the built-in advantage of hand printing that side is that you have to mark the fabric anyway so you'll know where to tie the knots. May as well make it pretty! The above photo is self-explanatory concerning the first step for the knot tying. Put your needle down and then come up again about 1/4" away.

I'm using mint green cotton yarn here, as you can see. Call me crazy but I like it with the lavender fabric paint and I like the lavender with the red print fabric. I leave the thread doubled through the needle so that there are two threads running through the stitch. Pull the thread through, leaving a rather long "tail" behind. I would say that tail is about 3"

But don't go yet! In order to make that stitch really secure, we need to go back and put our needle back down REALLY close to where we took the first plunge. You don't want to use the same hole because you don't want to make it any bigger. At least that is what I saw on somebody's YouTube video. I just do as I'm told until I prove it wrong and, so far, this seems to work and make sense. 

It seems most people just want to feel their way through this, but I prefer to actually look and see what's happening on the other side. The layers shift and the thread can unintentionally knot, so all sorts of crazy things can happen. You want it to look nice! My camera is having a hard time focusing on that needle, but I think you can see it coming up RIGHT NEXT to the first hole of the previous stitch. 

When you come back up and pull tight (but not too tight), you have this cute little stitch that looks really pretty in the center of that hand printed flower motif! Hmmm I think it is just what that flower needed!

Make your threaded yarn nice and long so that you can stitch several spots all at once. This saves the time of threading your needle over and over. 

The motifs are placed 6" apart, so when you cut the yarn tail in the middle, you have the 3" tail length on each side to make the knot. By the way, the motif is from my most popular stamp set, "Modern Flowers".  In fact, it is so popular that I am all sold out. Hope to have it back in stock by Christmas. 

This is where I tried something a bit unconventional. I decided to tediously tie a knot in the end of both tails, about 1/4" from the central stitch, rather than make the customary square knot or surgeon's knot. I tested it on a fabric swatch and I would say it's close to impossible to untie.

A nice decorative touch. Looks like the stamens for the flower.

On the other side is a simple mint green dot. Pretty!

This was an exploratory project which came out to be gift-worthy. One of my nieces just had a baby, so I sent it off to her. Hope she likes it! I did warn her about the potential for the knots to come loose. Can't be too carful when you are trying to make the world safe for a baby!

Then I made a grown-up version using the same linen and my lovely "Tropical Garden" fabric.

I used black embroidery thread for the knots.

I'm fairly happy with the results but I'm wondering what would happen if I doubled up on the layers of batting. I'd like to have more puffiness. And, I don't know about you but I miss the hand printing on the back. My thought was to keep it simple, but the hand printing gives it that unique, personal touch. 

I really need to make some things for my shop!

I do have these two deep-pocketed half aprons!

Along with two that are hand printed but have no pockets. A friend told me she liked her aprons without pockets, so I thought I'd give it a try. It's a marketing experiment! The motif in the red & black apron comes from my Deco Garden stamp set and the rose with curly stems in the second-from-bottom photo comes from a new set I am working on. Would be nice to have that out by Christmas….. I know I said in my last post that I wasn't going to try. I have reconsidered. 

Stay tuned!